APPROXIMATE ITINERARY (Times indicate time in local time)

WEATHER:

SUMMARY:

LOCATIONS VISITED:

Tu 14.7 We (AL, HL, KeL, KiL) arrived to Tallinn (59d37'N 24d46'E ) at 13.00. It was raining. We left the capital about an hour later. On the way to Haapsalu (58d56.5'N 23d32'E) we had seen two occupied White Stork nests by the road side. The flora on the roadside was quite impressive. Many plant species rare in Finland were abundant here. We arrived at out cottage at "Topu2" (58d52.3'N 23d29'E) at 17.00.

We 15.7 We (HL, JV) did some birding in the morning around the Haapsalu bay area visiting Väike Viik (58d57.0'N 23d31.7'E) and Suur Viik (58d57.5'N 23d31.0'E). These are in the Northern parts of Haapsalu city. Later in the morning we went to the East end (58d 58.3'N, 23d39.5'E) of the bay. Driving directions to this spot are as follows: Drive 9km from Haapsalu towards Tallinn, turn North on road 17 towards Palivere and Linnamäe. After 500m take a left on a dirt road (just after the second set of power lines crosses the road, and 200 meters before a bridge). On the dirt road keep to your left at every intersection. You will arrive to the shore line with good visibility over the eastern areas of this shallow bay. This spot had a White-tailed Eagle, a Little Gull, two Great Reed Warblers, and huge numbers of Swifts and Swallows.

Th 16.7 A slow start. At noon we (AL, HL, KeL, KiL, PV) left the cottage and headed North along the coastline. We stopped near Luksi at Haralaht (59d 06.6'N 23d 32'N) to check the Reed covered shore line. We found some Marsh Helleborine Orchids (Helleborine palustris). Afterfinding some ticks on us and realiszing that we had left our tick tweezers at our cottage we returned immediately to our base. One has to be careful with ticks because of possibility of Lyme's (=borrelisosis) or other diseases. After having lunch we got back on the same road and ended up in late afternoon at a beach (59d09.3'N, 23d31'E) near Roosta Campground for a swim and fossil hunting (please note comments below). I saw here some Eiders, Sanderlings, Dunlins and Gulls.

After a swim we checked the two Northwestern points in Estonia. Dirhami neem has a small harbor (59d12.6'N, 23d30.0E) with two vacant watch towers from the Soviet era. All these kinds of towers are now property of Estonian Ministry of Defence, Border Guard or local municipalities and although they appear vacant they are not abandonned. The second point Põõsaspea neem (59d 13.8'N, 23d30.5'N) close to the village of Spithami (59d 13.0'N, 23d32.0'N) appeared great, with an watch tower right at the tip of the peninsula, and a nearly full 360 degree view. This site is known as a top site for arctic migration in the spring and in the fall. At the time of our visit there was no migration. The meadows between the tip and the village were full of bunkers and birds. Due to limited time we could not spend more time here. For non-birders the peninsula turns out also interesting doing: Fossils can be found in the rocks by the beach. NOTE however that according to the äct on protected natural objects" (1994, revised in 1998) COLLECTING FOSSILS in Estonia IS PROHIBITED, but you can still enjoy their beauty on the coastal stones. Flora is interesting there too, and just east of Spithami there is a long undisturbed sand beach.

On return to our cottage Kirsi saw a Corncrake run over the road.

Fr 17.7 Just after midnight we (HL, KeL, KiL) drove 5 kilometers from our cottage south east to 58d51.9'N 23d30.1'E listening birds at every full kilometer. We heard 2 Long-eared Owls, 4 Corncrakes and saw 3 Grey Herons flying in the middle of the night! Furthermore we witnessed a beautiful display of noctilucent clouds.

With three kids (KeL, PV, AL) Jaakko and I departed at 7.30 for our bird trip. First we visited the Haeska bird tower (58d46.8'N 23d39.5'E) on the North edge of the Matsalu bay wildlife reserve (Matsalu lõõtuskaitseala). This turned out to be one of our best bird spots of this trip. We saw here Little Terns, Little Gulls, Waders, Greylag Geese, a pair of Montagu's Harrier, and a White-tailed Sea-eagle and large numbers of Anas ducks. In the village of Haeska we had simultaneously 3 Lesser-spotted woodpeckers, 2 Nuthatches and 1 Marsh tit.

Around 10.00 we stopped on road 31 at (58d48.2'N 23d46.0'E), the NE edge of Matsalu reserve and had 2 Barred Warblers, and 2 Montagu's Harriers.

We had some ice cream at a small "kohvik" at the point (58d44.0'N 23d 59.5'E) where Kasari jõgi (river) goes under Rte 30 (Tallinn-Virtsu Rd). Here we had about 10 white storks, seen here on other days too, as well as our only Lesser-spotted Eagle. We had a lunch break at the Matsalu reserve parking area (58d42.8'N 23d48.9'E). Our last excursion of the day was the bird tower North of Kloostri (58d45.2'N 23d50.5'E). The bird tower is a very sturdy tall former Soviet watch tower. From here one can view several tens of square kilometers of alluvial plains which were now pretty dry, but apparently are much wetter in the spring.

Sa 18.7 We (AL, KiL, KeL, HL, PV) continued from were we had left the day before and returned to the Matsalu reserve parking area. From thereon we walked each way 1.6km to the Penijõe bird tower and the very extensive reed beds of the bay. We had here the only Black Terns of the trip. Flora was once again quite impressive. We paid also a visit to the Nature Museum, with modest entrance fee (1EEK for kids, and 2EEK for adults). The museum is small but has a display of birds and fossils/rocks and kind staff. Some printed material is also available. A half an hour slide show was also presented to us featuring the seasons and the nature in wildlife area.

From here we proceeded to Matsalu harbor (58d44.8'N 23d40.5'E) to the Keemu birdtower. This was, once again a former Soviet watch tower with a good view over the area. We had a White-tailed Eagle here as well as some Little Terns.

A long drive followed to Pärnu beaches. We tried to get to the western most parts of Valgeranna (beach) West of Pärnu, but the roads turned out to be tractor quality, and the beach was covered there by reed beds. This area had though quite a few passerines and quite some good looking habitat (eg. at 58d23.3'N, 24d19.5'E). I dropped the family to the first good looking beach area. Apparently it was quite excellent with very shallow water and fine white sand. Meanwhile, I spent an hour between (17.15-18.15) in the field at 58d23.5'N, 24d 21.8'E checking a large flock of Gulls, Lapwing, Golden Plover and other waders. We went then to Pärnu for Burger.

Our evening project was Avaste mägi (58d42.5'N 24d13.5'E) between the bogs Avaste raba and Kesu raba. Although this hill is not very high, the views from here were splendid. We stayed around the North end of the large (helicopter?) halls. We saw several Marsh and Monatgu's Harriers. We also found a flock of Cranes a couple of kms North of the hill.

We drove back along minor roads (Avaste, Vangla, Rumba, Võhma, Seira, Kirbla) and saw several white storks here both in nests and feeding.

Before getting to the cottage we made a couple of stops between Ridala and Topu2. At our first stop (58d53.0'N 23d35.2'E) we had a Corncrake. Our second stop at the west end (58d53.1N 23d34.5'E) of the same marshy meadow yielded a second Corncrake as well as a distant Locustella warbler with a metallic sound to it. I had detemined to return later that night to check this bird. Unfortunately it did not materialize because of a flat and completely broken tire.

Su 19.7 The morning was spend getting the tire repaired. In the evening I visited the NW corner of the Matsalu bay. The Puise nina (58d46.5'N 23d27.5'E) is a flat peninsula with junipers (katajaa) scattered. It appears to be a splendid migration trap during fall migration. Topu laht, the bay (58d48.1'N 23d31.0'E) North of the village of Põgari and west of village Tuuru was one of the two top sites during this trip with several hundred waders, about 50 Grey Herons and over 250 Greylag Geese. A large falcon (possibly Peregrine) was also seen in the area (58d 47.0d 23 27.5'E).

At sunset I visited the harbor of village Kiideva (58d46.2'N 23d33.0'E). A 200 meter wide reed bed separated the shore line from the open water here. This site may be better earlier in the season. The harbor can be reached by driving on the dirt road just left of the terminal bus stop.

Mo 20.7 Departure from Cottage at 9.00. We (AL,KeL,KiL,HL) saw a Hobby and a Black Stork from the car. We visited also the Tallinn rubbish tip (59d21.5'N, 24d38.5'). The entrance is at the end of Raba te on Vabaduse puiste, about 1km NE from the intersection of Parnu maante, Vabaduse puiste and the Pärnu railroad. To access the dump site by buss take line 18 from the terminal stop at the intersection of Narva maante and Hobujaama, located about 1km south of the ferry terminals. Leave the bus at the stop named "Raba". It is right at the intersection of Vabaduse and Raba. We left Tallinn at 15.30.

THANK YOU:

LITTERATURE

BASIC GUIDE:

A useful booklet for birding in Estonia: "Bird-watching Localities in Estonia" by Aivar Leito ISBN

A useful guide in Norwegian to birding in Estonia is also provided by Morten Günter . On his home page click on "Fulger i Estland".

And finally a heafty booklet I heard about only later: "Lintuhavaintoja Virosta 1991-97". It is a compilation of observations made by Finnish bird observers. The text is all in Finnish. All bird names are in Latin. In the species list Estonian and Finnish names are included. Dates, locations and the birdcounts are quite understandable reading even for Finnish illiterrate birders. Copies can be obtained by first joining the Viron lintuseura -- Estonian Birding Society or by ordering individual copies from the supply store Lintuvaruste associated with Birdlife Finland.

AUDIO FIELD GUIDES or CDs:

TRANSPORTATION AND ROADS:

Gasoline price was about 6.40-6.70 EEK/liter (6.5EEK=2.5FIM=0.5USD) Gas stations relatively easy to find in cities, somewhat sparse in the countryside. Some gas stations appear to stay open 24 hours.

The paved roads were in general in good shape, but attention in driving is required. Several large pot holes were seen in paved roads, as were some large bricks or other debris. One has to be particularly careful in driving at night.

Almost every peninsula has "No driving"-signs by a guard gate. These all seemed to be relics from the time of the Soviet occupation, so I just ignored them, and had no trouble in doing so. The only "no driving"-sign in a peninsula that I felt was valid was a new one with text containing the word "piirivalve" (border guard). This was in Haapsalu.

Apparently, the number of private landowners owing coastal land is increasing rapidly, and there are locations in Läänemaa, where entrance to the shore line is prohibited by the new owners. This is apparently a hot topic and discussed locally. So, be aware that some of the öld Soviet" signs may actually be valid, again. In case the new owner asks you to leave his land, please respect his wishes.

COUPLE OF TIPS FOR FINNS:

MAPS:

Then there appears to be some better maps (eg. an Estonian road map booklet on a scale 1:200 000, 100EEK), which appears quite good, i.e. considerably better than the old types of maps. Unfortunately, it had some obvious information missing. I still think it is a good map, and I recommend it in case you don't find one of the following ones.

I found two sets of maps very useful and accurate. The easier to find were the province maps (maakonna turismikaart). These were on a scale of 1:150 000 and very detailed. The price for each chart is 25-29EEK covering a single province. I saw these kinds of maps only for Laane, Hiiumaa, Saaremaa and Raplamaa provinces, and for major towns (on 1:25000 - in the same series). I suspect that they are locally available for any of the 16 provinces.

After seeing these I was determined to look for an Atlas with similar maps covering all Estonia. I found one for 280 EEK in Haapsalu, but it was sold in front of me before I could dig the Krooni from my wallet. My sister-in-law and her husband found one in Pärnu for 250 EEK and got me a copy. The atlas measures standard A4 size (approx 8" by 12") and is about 1cm thick. The full name is

Regio, 1997-1998 Eesti Teede Atlas 1:150 000 (Estonian Road Atlas, Viron tiekartasto) ISBN 9985-817-21-4. It is sold by Regio, Laki 25, TALLINN EE0006, tel +372-650-5580, or +372 565 1504, fax: +372-65-5581. email: regio@regio.ee, Web-page http://www.regio.ee with the english page at http://www.regio.ee/regio_en.html

All the text is bilingual (Estonian, English), and the legends are also in Finnish (karttamerkinnat on siis selitetty myös suomeksi).

The atlas has two-page maps on scale 1:1 000 000 for driving distances, major roads and topography. On the same scale is also shown a political map and the chart index.

The main section of 98 maps cover the whole country at 1:150 000 scale. The maps are shown on a 10' by 6' grid in longitude and latitude, so coordinates are very easy to read! (That's were I got the coordinates from!)

(For Finns again - comparison to Finnish maps: Kartaston tiesto on GT karttojen luokkaa. Korkeuskäyriä ei ole koska Eesti on kovin tasainen. Suot ja metsät on merkitty. Tiestössä en huomannut retkeni aikana yhtään virhettä. Ainoa loytämäni virhe oli Maatsalun lahden itäpäässä sijaitsevan Kloostrin pohjoispuolella sijaitsevan tornin paikka on noin 300m pielessä, mutta sinne löytää silti kartan avulla. Haeskan lintutornikin oli merkitty kartanon väärälle puolelle. Maaseudun talot näyttävät olevan kaikki merkittyjä. Punaisella on merkitty asvaltoidut/öljysoratiet ja keltaisella hiekkatiet. Kapeammat keltaiset tiet voivat jäädä GT kartastojemme kapeiden mustien teiden tason alle... Jos traktorilla tai Subarulla voi ajaa on ko. tie kyllä merkitty karttaan!)

After the main section of maps two very useful maps follow: Coverage of mobile phone networks (RLE, EMT).

Further more maps of 47 cities are shown (as of 1 Jan 1996) on 21 pages mostly on a scale 1:20 000 (range 1:6 000 - 1:50 000).

There are separate indecies for the main part of the map and for the street names in Estonia. Finally, there is useful reading such as a text on the public right of way, and national parks as well as some tourist information -- and a page on birds of Estonia! This atlas is all you need!

Oh yes, if you have a habit of carrying a laptop and a GPS on your birding trips, you may obtain the CD version of the map and connect it to your GPS. You will then see directly on the map where you are. You'll never get lost in Estonia again. Quite cool stuff!

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION:

OTHER TIPS:

Estonia is WILD and quite CLEAN, except for the very fine dust by the sides of unpaved roads. This triggered me a bad hay fever-like asthma attack.

Long distance calling within Estonia is a little bit tricky. To call long distance from a mobile phone located in Estonia to a Tallinn number 123456 dial 22-123456 (or +3722123456). If you are making a long distance call from a "normal" or a pay phone you have to dial a 8 first, so in our example it would be 8-22-123456. The digit 8 is not shown on listings of phone numbers. And from abroad you would dial +3722123456.

LANGUAGE:

CURRENCY:

FRONTIER AND AIRPORT FORMALITIES:

ACCOMMODATION:

SOME USEFUL ADDRESSES:

NOTES ON SPECIES

MAMMALS - NISÄKKÄÄT (Latin and Finnish names only)

MUSHROOMS - SIENIÄ (Latin and Finnish names only)

PLANTS - KUKKASIA (Latin and Finnish names only)

Fields -- Pelloilla: